YOU’VE GOTTA HAVE HAART
If the family has been making wine in the same village from the same grand cru vineyards since 1337, yes 1337, you’ve got some bragging rights. Yet the Haart family, headed by mom and dad Theo and Edith and sons Johannes and Marcus, are just salt of the earth folks. They go about tending their vineyards in the famous village of Piesport on Germany’s Mosel River with TLC and make wine with little fanfare. Yet the end product turns heads and has taste buds quivering. Riesling is at its absolute finest from their slate-covered vineyards that face due south in a bend of the Mosel river that resembles a huge amphitheatre. Sheltered from cold winds coming from the northwest, the warmth of the sun is reflected from the river’s surface that ensures slow and consistent ripening of the grapes. One third of this 2016 Kabinett classified cuvée is sourced from the Goldtröpfchen and the remainder from the neighboring Grafenberg vineyard site. Pink grapefruit, tangerine, apricot and spices emerge from the glass. Lush peach and almond with a beautiful balancing acidity play precisely on the palate. Enjoy now, on its own, on the patio, or pair it with any seafood dish. Or lay down for a number of years for even more complexity to develop. Oh by the way, for people who like to rely on scores from serious sources, it got 92 points from the Wine Advocate. On a side note, there are ruins of an old Roman pressing station right behind the Haart house that confirm winemaking took place as far back as the fourth century.
HAART 2016 PIESPORTER RIESLING KABINETT V727461, $23.95