(v) Dr. Siemens Serriger Würzburg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2008
91 Points - Robert Parker
Given its 30 grams of residual sugar, you could argue with the appropriateness of the designation feinherb for Siemens' 2008 Serriger Wurtzberg Riesling Kabinett feinherb, but it is still noticeable drier than most of what's bottled as off-dry Kabinett these days. And having arrived at 10% alcohol, Siemens didn't want to sacrifice any more potential delicacy by fermenting the wine further. Cherry blossom and honeysuckle with mint, oregano, almond and pistachio oil in the nose set the stage for a metaphorically cooling performance of utmost refreshment. Cherry and apricot tinged with herbs, salt, white pepper, and crushed stone inform a satisfyingly long finish. I suspect this will gain in nuance and harmony over the next several years and be worth following for a decade. In his third vintage at the former estate of Bert Simon (which was before that the Saar outpost of onetime Mosel giant Von Schorlemer) Dr. Jochen Siemens has definitively demonstrated his talents as well as those of these steep vineyards at what today represent the upper limits of significant viticulture on the Saar. 'It was a curious vintage,' he says, first on account of the slowness with which 'frighteningly high' acids came down and flavors developed in the grapes. Picking did not being here in earnest until nearly the end of October, but then with a proportion of around 75% tartaric acid. The second curiosity Siemens noted was the alarmingly tardy evolution in tank of wines that 'at first, and for a long time, simply tasted boring.' Well, boring they're not now! This is a collection that deserves widespread attention. Incidentally, Siemens pumps and filters his wines only once, at bottling.
Size: 750 mL