Dr. Siemens Serriger Würzburg Feinherb Riesling Kabinett 2010
90 Points - Robert Parker
Musky aromas of peony and narcissus mingle with ripe peach on the nose and lusciously juicy palate of Siemens' 2010 Serriger Wurtzberg Riesling Kabinett feinherb, whose high acidity works to promote a citric and invigorating, salt- and stone-tinged finish. Buoyant at 10% alcohol; silken-textured; and only discreetly sweet despite 28 grams of residual sugar, this offers one of those lovely examples of Riesling balance such as one too-seldom witnesses outside of the Saar and a few addresses on the Mosel. 'To have let it ferment to legal Halbtrockenheit would have meant approaching 12% alcohol and losing the sense of levity,' explains Siemens. Crushed stone and toasted nuts add interest to this successful and inevitably versatile performance. There are certainly delicate 2010s that display greater clarity or juicy refreshment, features that may have been sacrificed here to the buffering effects of extended skin contact. But there is a whole lot to like and I expect that will remain the case for at least ten or a dozen years. Siemens comments that at the time of my tasting this Kabinett was showing 'closed' compared to earlier performances.